It Takes a Village

One of the absolutely fantastic things about being here is the realization of how much work goes in to the basics of life when 'technology' is absent. Without pre-packaged meals, dishwashers, washing machines and dryers, microwaves, and two cars for every person, arrangements and preparations are constantly being made on our behalves. And that's for life outside of training and treatment.

I could wax poetic about how the simplicity of life here is so beautiful, and that would be partly true. But it is also difficult, and I feel grateful that so many helpful and caring people surround me everyday.

Today, as I was watching Adrika apply a home-made paste to Gerhard's hurting knees, it occurred to me that he came over to the house where we eat Kanjana's delicious food to get some milk. Then he gathered the other ingredients from the market and went to Lakshmiti's house (were Sam stays) to make the paste & get cloths to wrap the knees. Finally, he came to our house to treat Gerhard. All of this he did on foot.
A small side note: Adrika is an Herb Collector, he knows every growing thing here, and a bunch of the medicinal application qualities for them, but mainly, he takes care of us.

So after he left, I really spent some time reviewing all the wonderful people here who make it possible for us to just be here:
Kanjana and Lakshmiti who cook and clean for us, three meals a day, tea all day, and LOADS and LOADS of laundry, which is done by hand on a washing stone.
Lakshmi, who lives next door, and keeps milk in her refrigerator so that we can have chai in the morning. Lakshmi also keeps the house key, which gets dropped off and picked up twice a day.
Adrika, who is constantly getting food and medicines and running from house to house to house for all of our needs.
Annil, who helps out with treatments in special cases, and it seems there are always special cases.
Rajif, Dinesh, and Ramesh, who train us every morning, and Ramesh trains and helps with
treatment in the afternoon as well. Ramesh and Rajf are also the airport taxi, which is no small job, as it is 3 hours away.
Shefirka's sons, Shahabas, Samil, Jamsheer, who are constantly shuffling scooters, bikes and cars around so we can get where we need to go. Jamsheer also helps with treatment.
And of course, Sherifka, who is limitless in knowledge, but is also EXTREMELY active in keeping us well fed, well stocked with ayurvedic medicines, and co-ordinates the crazy circus that is going on here every day.

All of these people remind me of all the people it takes to run the studio, and I am truly humbled and inspired by the village here and the village waiting for me at home.

Relief

Big news: I got some sleep! And today was a day off of training, so I got rest, too! And the heat broke this afternoon! I feel like it's Christmas (although much much hotter than the one I'm used to).

Today was really mellow, lots of chatting, a bit of reading and a nice long sit at the beach. I had intended to go swimming, but at the last minute a few boys decided to move their base of operation directly in front of me and it just isn't a good idea to give them any sort of show (a super-white chick with very blond hair in a bathing suit is a major show).

Much of the afternoon seemed like a dream, the breeze was so nice and finally cooling. The sun was shimmering on the water, and the birds seemed to be flying just for the sheer pleasure of free gliding.

After the beach and a shower Sherifka stopped by for a very quick chat and to see if we're staying at this house, or moving to the main house when it opens up on Monday. We decided to give it one more night to see if the noise is manageable. If I can sleep, I'd sure love to stay put.

I do have to admit to some apprehension about starting treatment in a week. Janet is getting hers now, and she thinks it's great, but we hear her moaning and groaning during the treatment. Yikes!

We'll see how it goes...

Sherifka

I WAS beginning to write about how we're not getting any sleep here, dogs, fireworks, temple music at 5am etc etc etc ...& Sherifka stopped by.

I can't really explain what it is like to be around him. If you were to meet him on the street, perhaps you would think 'really nice man" and nothing more, but I am constantly astounded at his level of knowledge.

Tonight he was telling us more about the different forms and the way they are constructed, and which lineages do which forms, and why some don't. Also he was talking about some of his own teachers, how far he traveled to study very specific elements of the practice with them, and his efforts to write curriculum for all the styles of Kalari, so that they can be preserved as much as possible. This quest to find the most complete Kalari practice & treatment systems has been his life's work.

Skerifka has gone so far into this knowledge that he actually has palm leaves from hundreds of years ago with instructions written on them about how the forms should be, and the healing and fighting applications for them as well. For example, after receiving the traditional massage which is quite loosening, there is a danger of injury to the joints , so the palm leaves indicate stamping & jumping in a certain way to re-integrate. This is a technique he started using only after studying the texts for years & this Kalari is the only one currently using the technique. Since incorporating the stamping & jumping, the injuries he was seeing are totally gone.

All of this goes in to what we do here every day & I am so humbled by the opportunity to be here & just hang out on the porch with him, I know for sure that I have only begun to get the smallest idea of the amount of knowledge Sherifka has. I know that if spent the rest of my life studying with him, I could never know what he knows. These people are rare in the world today. I am so lucky.

Not Getting any Easier, BUT..

So I took the morning off of practice. With all the moving and intruders, I haven't really slept well & it all caught up with me today. It felt great to get some extra sleep, plus afternoon practices are supposed to be lighter, so I thought no big deal, just an easy day today. Wrong again...

Each day I have been learning a new technique, or a new form & I keep thinking "this is the hardest thing I have ever done, this is probably where I'll stop". The next day, somehow I have more energy & power & they give me the next hardest thing to do. It's amazing, but tough! Today's afternoon practice may have been the toughest yet (for the Kalari crew in Utah: we did Shakti forms 1, 3, 4 & 5 + two southern forms+ all the other stuff...INSANE!). I don't know how I made it.

I really think it's the magic of the clay, the oil & the power of the teachers here that keeps me able to sustain this level of training. Also, that the practice itself is so highly potent. The opportunity to study in a direct lineage, with an unbroken practice is so rare, I can feel the power of the practice itself being transmitted to me, and it is a truly awesome feeling.

As for Milton, we had a brief conversation about Snow & he's not that into it, so it's goodbye for now. I am going back to that house tomorrow (just to get a few things left behind, not moving), so hope to get a picture & as soon as I can post them, you can meet him too. It was sad, but I think it's for the best.

Bye Bye Milton

It is late, and today was a big day.

We moved again hopefully for the last time, but there might be one more). The folks outside the windows just wouldn't give up & we weren't gettng much sleep. They're not dangerous, just curious. Nevertheless, I am exhausted & need to try to sleep in the new pace.

More tomorrow on the goodbye to Milton the cow...

Going Nuts~ Coconuts

Today was the "rest day" which means no practice. It also means (usually) going to town.

I had expected to be writing about that, since I knew we would be there longer than the 1st time & I had hoped to have some great stories to tell. In fact, town was just hot & tedious. Everything took three times as long as it should have, partly because we had too many people to coordinate & partly because that's just how it is here. Also, the staring is starting to get to me just a little. I'm sure I'll get over it again soon, but still - it's wearing on the nerves.

All is not lost!

This morning the COOLEST thing happened. The new house is on a coconut plot- they're everywhere here. Funny thing is, I can't seem to get a coconut to drink & eat to save my life..until today. We were just about to leave for breakfast when we heard noises outside. After investigating, it was clear that some folks had come to harvest the coconuts. Gerhard knew that I had been whining about no coconuts for days now & so went to see if they might let us pay for one or two. Before we knew it, we had 6 coconuts, two were opened & ready for eating & drinking & they wouldn't take a single rupee for them. We scrambled to figure out what to give them as a gift & settled on ginger candies I had brought from home. They looked puzzled, but amused that we were going nuts over the coconuts. The coconuts tasted sooooooo great. They are a cooling food & it is so hot here - I can't imagine anything tasting more satisfying.

Milton the cow & I are getting along very well, and I think he secretly wants to be my pet & ditch his heron for good. I'll keep you posted as the situation develops.

It's Hot

Sundays are the hardest day- the teachers don't have their other jobs to go to, so we practice a lot longer in the morning, and yet still have afternoon practice. It's tough. Today was extra special because it also was the hottest day so far. There was a power cut for most of the afternoon which means no fans (already no air conditioning).
I took four cold showers & swam in the ocean to try to cool a bit. I can NOT imagine what it is like in March, when everyone says it gets really hot (what the heck? how is that even possible?!).

Even with this, today was another great day. Somehow, practices actually went well, though & tomorrow is our day off training, all will be well very soon. We had fun getting lost after the second practice & played Jenga (the Germans call it yenga) after dinner, which was really great- just to hang out & talk to each other not in practice mode.
Tomorrow: town going.

Less Doing, More Doing

Today was interesting.

The new group is settling into each other & we miss Manuel. Sam is practicing at a different Kalari, so we aren't seeing him. Gerhard & I are settling into the new house. We have a baby cow that grazes in our yard. I've named him Milton. I am trying to figure out how to get Milton on the plane, so he can come home with me. I think Buttercup would love a friend like Milton. I am re-learning how to be a non-wiggly passenger on the back of a scooter... it's been busy!

I didn't get much sleep due to some curious locals peeping around the house a couple of times in the night. I think I may have gotten 2-3 hours of sleep in total, & I was bummed. If you're tired, you can't train at the same level- no power. So I was already a bit out-of-sorts when we started morning practice, but much to my surprise, I had somehow had a breakthrough in the physical body. Things were flowing & strong, under good control & focused. I was really ready to tear it up.

Ramesh had another idea. (A side note: Ramesh is one of our teachers, who, incidentally, laughs HYSTERICALLY when anyone gets hurt & says "yes, it is like that, better tomorrow, hee hee hee".) Even though I was strong today, he had me do a short practice, nothing new, nothing twice, a lot of rest. I was a bit disappointed.

Now I know. I got my arse handed to me in the afternoon practice...you may have seen it coming, but I sure didn't.

I did these things called sitting turning kicks & sitting splits kicks. Yup, they are as bad as they sound & that was only a third of the practice. Thank goodness for the ocean. The swimming really loosens the muscles & it is so nice to get some of the dirt, sweat & oil off.

Next time they tell me to rest, I think I'll just take a seat.

Bow to your neighbor, do-see-do

Moving day.
Up until today, there have been four of us staying here: Gerhard, me, Manuel & Janet (both from Munich~Janet is Manuel's student). It has been a great group dynamic & we all really like each other.

Manuel is a total maniac who likes to watch "VH1's 'Rock of Love' with Brett Michaels" and learn American dude lingo-also, he is an animal in the Kalari, really works hard, and breaks the short sticks every time he uses them.
Janet is absolutely lovely, takes a dunk in the ocean at least twice a day, goes to town for cookies every other day, & has a really strong long stick practice. I taught her how to play Gin & now she's hooked & kicking Manuel's arse.

But as goes life, change today. We now have met Dagmar (Hamburg), Xinia (Cologne), and Sam (England) ~all lovely & Manuel is off to travel for two weeks. He will be missed for sure, I am glad I get to see him before I leave.

Gerhard & I just moved in to a new place which is really nice & I even have my own bathroom with a real shower head! (still no hot water, but GREAT!) Now we have to go back to the other place for meals, but I really like it here. It is quiet & for some reason, a bit cooler & less mosquitoes. My poor legs really need a break from the little buggers.

With the Kerala shuffle going on + feeling just a little weak from yesterdays adventure with fruit it was really great to have a rest & a long soak in the ocean this afternoon. I felt so good that I even ate a full dinner tonight- a first!

Looking forward to practice tomorrow with the new crew.

Does this fruit taste kinda funny?

Uh oh..
SO- we eat unusually here. Because all life revolves around practice, we eat a big meal after practice in the morning, and only fruit for lunch.

This usually works well, BUT today something tasted a little off. I should have stopped after the 1st weird flavor, but this morning at practice, I was told to eat more to sustain strength. I felt okay after, but then got a tiny little fever, which went away just before 2nd practice, so I went. Not a good idea.

I stopped about halfway through & could only sit on the steps (cool clay on feet= good, moving= bad). We came home for showers & dinner & I knew it was bad when I looked at the food. Sherifka came over & took me to the Avurvedic Dr. right away (I think he was wondering exactly how white I could get). I felt like a jackass.

The unbelievable thing is that I am writing now.

That Dr. is my new best friend- although not when he was thrusting his fingers in my gut to feel the extent of the problem. I am learning that the Indian way is very direct & very efficient, no mamby pamby, 'how does this feel', just straight to it! The medicines here are also like little miracles (although not tasty, effective). I feel a little weak, but 100% better than just 2 hours ago. It simply is amazing.

No practice tomorrow, but looking forward to a new adventure, preferably one that is NOT gastro-intestinal.

BACKBENDS!

HOOORAY!

Those who know me will smile, we did a bunch of drop-back backbends in second practice today & then some really fun flippy things from handstand to backbend & up...again & again & again. Then cartwheels up and back...I had no idea that these even existed within Kalari & boy, am I glad, so much fun!

After pactice, I swam in the ocean for the 1st time since I arrived here. The water is sooo warm & I didn't mind having to wear full clothes so much (bathing suits on women are not a good idea here).

This was the best day here so far!

Just Like Football

I love football- specifically college football (hook 'em Horns!). In football, you know it's getting serious & close to the opening of the season when the "two-a-days" begin. It's an exciting time, but tough for the players. bodies tire quickly & a whole new rhythm emerges, strengthening the players and pulling the team together .

Today we started "two-a-days". This means hard practice in the morning, and less hard practice in the afternoon. It was also my first day to practice with Sherifka. I was super nervous once again! I was so distracted that I slammed my foot down doing something easy & split my toe open (don't worry, nothing big, just mindless). Of course, Sherifka was unbelievable in practice ( I think he can jump as high as my head & move as fast as a cheetah- same goes for teaching.

He has that way of efficiency that only true masters have: communicating not only physical alignment, but also energetic alignment, history and purpose in one small sentence.

I also am learning that the teachers here move you with their energetic field. It is truly unbelievable to catch their gaze & know that they are steadying your balance, or firing up your center. I have never experienced anything like it. Once again, feeling incredibly grateful to be here, I am learning not only how to practice Kalari, but also how o be a better teacher.

We also practiced in the new Kalari today, it is so beautiful, the red clay is for sure my favorite surface to practice on. I can't quite explain how the literal connection to earth strengthens & energizes the practice. I have got to figure out a way to get a pit at the studio!

One last 1st: I started wearing the traditional uniform today: wrap-like pants that just cover the knee & open at the sides. It took a bit of finagling, but I finally figured out how to get them on my body for morning practice. In the afternoon, not so much. I had selected a pair that were WAAAAYYY too big & the other woman here, Janet, & I laughed & laughed -so hard that we couldn't dress & we delayed the afternoon practice at least 10 minutes. Oh well, live & learn!

Shopping

Today was our day off of training, so after cleaning up & breakfast, we grabbed a rickshaw & went into town. I forgot to bring a hat, so was quite a spectacle with my blond hair & white skin. I don't mind the staring so much, I'm sure that if the shoe were on the other foot, I'd stare, too!

I didn't help myself by buying sarongs. You would think that this is a natural choice, given the heat, but women dont wear them, just men. I also bought some men' s t-shirts because they are thin & breezy & it is soooo hot (my feet look like piggy sausages!). After flummoxing the poor kid helping us, I redeemed myself by getting some shawls in the ladies department. We really do need to cover the shoulders & I only brought long sleeved wraps (see above).
When we arrived back at the house, I changed into some of the cooler clothing & Kanjala immediately made a sari out of what I had bought. The whole house giggled & giggled & my new nickname is "kerala lady".

Going to town is quite the big effort, so now time for resting..

Settling in...I think

Today was actually my 4th day of practice. With the delay in internet access, I had to catch up. In the two days that followed the 1st practice, I got a migraine (surprise) & then sick to my stomach...BUT today was much better. I am finding that a slower rhythm allows me to sustain strength in the practice (big surprise) without getting sickie after. It is so amazing to contrast practice here with practice at home. Often, at home I can plow through even if I don't feel wonderful, but here, NO WAY! You'll just get super sick. What I've learned is that it all is no good, practicing when not well, just there it stores up & here you get instant feedback. Isn't this what we are working for in our yoga practice? Conscious awareness & balanced choices?

I can't quite find words to express the depth of experiential learning going here. Each day Sherifka "casually" stops by for lunch, or a chat on the porch & BAM! Download of the centuries.

I am beginning to believe that his knowledge of all styles of Kalari + healing techniques & modalities , yoga, and ayurveda PLUS other martial art forms is limitless. Today he was talking about Central Style Kalari & how much of the lineage is lost because it was kept so secret & the gurukkals started dying without passing the knowledge on. It is a beautiful, dance-like practice based on the movement of the vayus (energy patterns in the body). I kept thinking of the way Shiva ( Shiva Rea, my yoga teacher) teaches, and how similar the feel of the movement must be.

All in all, I feel a deep sense of gratitude for the path that has guided me here, to listen to the wisdom of my body, and the wisdom of those who have spent a lifetime collecting and gathering and practicing and passing it all on.

1st Practice

Just one thing to say: WOW!
The Kalari is made of red clay, three steps down from "ground level". It is covered by a pitched roof covered in palm leaves. There are stations in three corners, and at the front, each a symbol essential to the practice. Needless to say, when I entered I felt a deep sense of reverence (and anxiety of anticipation) for the lineage that is thousands of years old.
First, we oiled: this was a bit tricky! Women wear more clothes than men in the training, so must 1st strip down to lube up & redress before the men enter. There are two oils: one for the head & one for the body & you pretty much dunk yourself in them. Note : the mosquitoes LOVE the oils! Hooray!
After oiling, new students like me are instructed on what to do while senior students begin practice on their own. I was SUPER nervous- I didn't know anyone & the instructors speak Malayalam mainly. So I had to trust that my practice in SLC was enough to prepare me to begin here. I kept thinking that Gerhard had told me not to worry because the 1st day they have you do almost nothing so just get through it & you'll be fine. WRONG!
I ended up doing everything that I had learned over the past year...don't ask me how.
After practice ended, I was so relieved, and soo happy, and COVERED in red clay & oil. I must have looked like a 4 year old child after a mud-pie contest.
Thanks goodness we have a wonderful woman - Kanjana, making juice & delicious & super-healthy food for us after practice.
After a bucket shower,I was off to the Ayurvedic doctor for a consultation to determine the curse of action for treatment & practice. I found out that healthy folks don't have migraines every 10-12 days! Weird! So three potions, 1 powder @ two pills later, i have my routine.
The bad news: I can't practice for THREE WEEKS once the marma treatment begins. Marma treatment usually means a rigorous set of massages done anywhere between 3 days- 21 days continuously with a purge in the middle to achieve a deep level of healing for the patient.
I am grateful for the opportunity to experience this amazing healing modality (if a bit disappointed with such a long break from practice) especially if the migraines get fixed once & for all!

Arrival

I had intended to get the blog up and running three days ago, but USB sticks & trips to town all had to be arranged in order for this to happen. I was told that once you arrive in India you are on her time, so release all urgency & surrender. This is very good advice.
In order to post pictures, the same rule now applies, so that will appear when she is ready...
Now on to the story:
1st: I love it here.
I know it probably comes as no shock to those who know me, but the depth of feeling I experienced upon arrival surprised even me (though EXHAUSTED after two days of grueling travel).
Everyone had warned me about car travel & how scary it is in India; with cars driving on all sides of the road, avoiding buses, cows, and scooters at a break-neck pace, but I was calm & felt the flow within the seeming chaos to be affirming. We stopped for food & I had my forst experience eating with ONLY my right hand & with people staring at my skin & hair. We stopped for the train & I had my first experience of the community of humanity here- everyone together, out of their cars & scooters, too hot to wait in a vehicle, may as well walk & stretch- all together....nice.
When we finally made it to Kannur, a bed was moved in to a room with a bathroom/shower* for me & I decided to unpack & set up my mosquito net before going to bed at 3:30am. Whew!
*(This is one tiled enclosure with a toilet in a giant shower stall-which only has cold water unless you heat some on a stove & put in a bucket to be poured on yourself)
The next morning, we were told not to practice, and I was grateful. I met with Sherifka (the gurukkal of the Kalari) to determine when I would practice & when I would recieve treatment, both are very important to the study of Kalari. It seems that my migraine headaches every 3-12 days were a concern (of course!) so an appointment was set for a visit to the local Ayurvedic Dr. for the next day. In the meantime, I would practice the next morning.